Information About Engraving

Rage against the machines! .......

This section of the site is to help give you, the prospective client, the engraving enthusiast, student or just the curious, a behind-the scenes look into creating an embellished piece. Quality hand engraving is a very time intensive and technical process. Once the art is complete and the pencil is put away, the technique of reproducing that artwork in metal begins.

The tool for embellishing most materials by hand is the chisel and has been ever since the first firearm or knife was engraved and the first statue sculpted centuries ago. The information provided here will help you estimate how much "time" is invested in a hand engraved piece. In being able to estimate the actual amount of human interaction, in terms of time, you will also be able to value the work accordingly. When hand work is compared side-by-side with machine work, the hand engraved piece stands far above. While visiting a local show, a dealer was excited to point out an engraved piece while commenting: "I bet it took a long time for the engraver to do this". The piece was, in fact, laser engraved with gold plated areas. The "engraver" merely pushed a button which cut a pre-programmed pattern. Ultimately, if you like what you see, then that's all that matters. If you are as passionate as I am, then you know that only hand engraving can add significant value to an already valuable item.

Whether it is a custom knife, fine jewelry, firearm or a custom motorcycle, the general process is the same: item/surface preparation, the actual engraving and then the final finish. The stages of different projects will be documented and illustrated here .... much more, including tutorials, soon to come and always updated ....

..... scroll below to see how a stainless ring is engraved and how shading is executed on a custom knife. .....

Try to keep in mind some of the steps used to bring an object to life with engraving:

1. Design layout - The design is either drawn directly on the metal or hand drawn on paper before being tranferred to the metal and then cut.

2. Background removal - This is almost always the most time intensive and thus indicative of more expensive engraving. Relieving the background areas create a beautiful contrast in color and when deep, creates an apealing contrast in depth.

3. Shading - The final step of engraving that is usually performed. Proper shading can achieve just about every shade of gray. The ranges of gray are what give a design dimension and realism.

thank-you for visiting ... Chris

Bead punching a motorcycle part with a (rather large) hammer and punch. The part is mounted to a wooden jig to hold it upright while engraving is performed on a specific area.

Hand Fabricated Stainless Steel Wedding Band

This was an extremely cool project. From concept to creation, the mission was to create the perfect ring for an avid firearms enthusiast ... not just in appearance but in HOW it was fabricated. I commissioned custom gunmaker Steven Cale to turn this ring on his barrel lathe from surgical grade, stainless steel, round bar stock. After drilling, reaming, chamfering and final polishing, it was in my vise for engraving of traditional American scroll as seen on countless of contemporary and historical American made firearms.

The following progression of photos will take you through the engraving process...

This is a 12mm wide ring of small diameter. Engraving a small radius of hard steel is a challenge. Here it is clamped tight in the vise between two leather straps. The basic lines of the scroll design have been cut. A design that runs continuously and never ends thus signifying the commitment of marriage.

Looking through the microscope, leaves are being cut and additional leaves are scribed ready to be cut next.

Scribed leaves are cut ...

The background is relieved (removed) by cutting away the steel in those areas.

The cut away areas are then matted with a pointed punch. This darkens the background to create contrast from the scroll design.

The left shows areas not yet matted, the right reveals areas already matted.

This ring with all background areas relieved and matted ....

Looking through the microscope ... leaves are shaded to create dimension.

Shading complete, the ring is then oxidized using a special black oxide solution for stainless steel. Final treatment and polishing leaves a permanent black in the cuts and background ... completely durable, safe to wear and corrosion resistant.

Brief Tutorial on Shading for Dimension ....

Before you begin shading, everything needs to be finished: border, background removed and matted ... and all edges of the design cleanly cut. The circled area in red is the area that I will focus on.

The scope shot of the circled area:

Subdivide your areas to be shaded by first defining the areas of each element. You'll see I have defined the fold in the large leaf as well the areas that are the undersides of the leaves. Everything tapers from wide to narrow as you progress from the end of the leaves to their points of origin. This is important in achieving contrast as the shade lines both widen and merge.

Shade the underside to achieve the look of the fold .... contoured lines.

It helps to subdivide the leaf itself into sections .... Treat #1 separately then on section #2. Run your first line (top line) down the center. Depending on how dark you want the leaf to be, begin the second closer. Or if lighter, not so close.

Here, the work is rotated and you can see where I am running the third cut ... as it progresses, it "splits the difference" as it merges.

Shading of the leaf is finished ....

.... here's the back of the knife reversed to give you an idea of how all this comes together. I take each element individually .... when I zoom the scope back out, take the work out of the vise .... it all comes together.

Have fun ...